Seville & Ronda – 22 to 27 October

The drive to Seville passed through some very dry and uninteresting terrain initially but then we started to see citrus & olive groves & a few cork trees. The terrain became more undulating & the valleys quite green.

At first sight Seville looks very pretty. Our Pension is down a narrow, car free, lane & we were told parking was at No 19 in the nearby street (which was just a garage door?) Went to our Pension & the guy walked us back to the garage, unlocked & I had to reverse down a narrow ramp between several other cars & concrete pillars into a tiny space at the back. The mirrors were nearly touching & the cars sensors were going mad as we were close all round. Finally got in unscathed & looking forward to getting back out in a few days.

Our Pension is very quaint, just a door to the street but opens up into little courtyard areas, balconies, terraces etc with further doors leading to rooms. Headed out for a stroll among the narrow lanes, which proved to be even narrower than other cities but with wonderful little courtyards in the entrances of many homes. Seafood paella for dinner.

Typical home entrance in lanes of Seville

Today we did guided walking tours through the Cathedral (huge & stunning) & Alcazar (the Royal Palace & gardens), a mix of architectural styles with a strong Moorish influence. The gardens were huge, formal & stunning.

Seville from Cathedral Tower

Alcazar

Alcazar

Alcazar

Tonight we went to see a Flamenco performance – quite serious but very impressive – loved the guitar work & dancing – I guess the singing is an acquired taste?

Next morning headed down to Plaza de Espana – a spectacular building & fountains built for the 1929 Expo with row boats & horse carts etc – very impressive. Then strolled through the nearby gardens & across the river to the Triana District known for its flamenco, tapas, bull fighting & fishing – another very pretty area of town.

Plaza de Espana

Plants anyone? 

Finished the day with another walking tour through the Barrio de Santa Cruz (the former Jewish quarter). The guide was again very interesting & knowledgeable. Certainly interesting to hear of the history of these old cities with Christians, Jews & Moslems competing for dominance. We have certainly enjoyed Seville.

We drove through many lanes just like this.

Left Seville with plans to grab brekky along the road but for the first time there seemed no roadside cafes? Had to leave the highway & go into a small town called El Coronil with standard parking difficulties but a very cute median strip! The landscape was initially flat & dry with many ploughed fields & very few trees. Gradually the land rose until we entered some quite rugged hills.

Arcos de la Fronterra was a fascinating “white” town perched atop cliffs above the Guardalete River - wandered around checking out the stunning views down every street – a really pretty town. The surrounding plains were a pale colour & very rocky. A novelty was the monastery selling sweet treats through a little rolling servery - a bit like one of those revolving money counters at banks but you can't see through - very quaint & yummy bikkies.

Monastery bikkie sales

Arcos de la Fronterra

Arcos de la Fronterra

Arcos de la Fronterra

Next stop, Ronda, another “white” town on cliff tops but with a 100 metre deep river gorge running right through the town & topped by the Puente Nuevo bridge. Staying 3 nights here.

A busy day in Ronda. First headed to the bull ring & museum – a beautiful stadium but glad there was no bull fighting happening. Then walked down & up the steep track & stairs to the base of the gorge – a drop of about 120 metres over a kilometre but worth it for the amazing views of the massive bridge & the town atop the cliffs. Next checked out the other two bridges over the gorge before heading into the Secret Mine in the Arab Fortress built in the 14th century – a very steep spiral staircase cut into the rock, descending some 80 metres & exiting at the river at the base of the gorge – this was used to get water for the town when under siege (guess they didn’t have pumps back then!!) Finished the day with a guitar concert – classical, romantic & flamenco guitars – excellent.

Ronda gorge topped with restaurants

Puente Nuevo - Ronda

Base of gorge down spiral mine stairs

We have been blessed with great weather for some time now, warm(25-30), cloudless & delightful. Today we took a pleasant drive in the country. We completed a circuit from Ronda to Setenil to Zahara to Grazalema & back to Ronda. The countryside was quite changeable with rolling hills, pasture, crops, olive trees, cork trees & then higher hills with spectacular views. All three towns were “white” towns, all had beautiful narrow cobbled lanes, pretty town squares & heaps of bars & restaurants.

Many of the buildings in Setenil were actually set in the cliff face with other buildings directly above on top of the cliff.

Setenil

Setenil

Zahara was perched on a hill with a castle right at the top – the road to the town spirals around the hill on its way to the town. We walked up a very steep track to the castle which provided 360 degree views of the surrounding mountains, valley & lake.

Zahara

The road from Zahara to Grazalema wound up & over the mountain range with steep drops off the sides & great views. Grazalema was set at the head of a valley with high mountains on three sides & a sheer drop to the valley on the fourth side. Another very pleasant day.

Grazalema

Lisbon & Algarve– 15 to 21 October

A few hiccups finalising our booking in Lisbon but finally got sorted. It’s a beautifully renovated apartment in a fairly ordinary street in the old Mouraria district but close to the centre of things. Had to lug our bags up steep cobblestone streets as our car was parked down under the square. We are right in the maze of back streets.

Our Lisbon apartment (grey door)

Had a wander around town centre where they were just finishing off the Lisbon Marathon we watched a few 6 hour plus runners getting to the line to great cheers.

Today we jumped on the hop on - hop off bus to see the sights of Lisbon. Certainly an interesting city! We travelled through the typical old narrow cobble stoned streets with many beautiful old buildings. In some areas there were many run-down buildings covered in graffiti but 2 doors down was a newly renovated apartment & across the street a crane working on a new development – there are cranes all across the skyline. Then we entered the newer part of town which was built following the World Expo in 1998 – this part of town was new and shiny and interesting with lots of modern architecture, sculptures etc. Then back to the waterfront which is mostly very neat & on an organised grid of roads (not the usual maze) due to an earth quake in 1755 which required a complete rebuild of the centre of the city.

One of many statues in the squares in Lisbon

Beer o'clock

Top of lamp posts

Lisbon scene

Had a short ride on the tram (like a small version of our old W Class). The tram travels along steep narrow streets barely squeezing between buildings & parked cars. Hopped off in the Alfama district which is full of traditional restaurants and Fado houses.

Lisbon tram

Lisbon street

Lisbon street

In the arvo we took a “free” walking tour – you just pay a tip to the guide - recommended at Eur10? Our guide, Pedro, was really entertaining & gave us many insights into the history of Lisbon & Portugal.

Lisbon street

Next morning back on the bus to Belem, a western suburb of Lisbon close to the Tagus River mouth. A very pleasant area with beautiful homes including many embassies, a spectacular monastery, the Belem Tower & the famous ‘Pasteis de Belem’ (a café selling beautiful custard tarts since 1837 – they sell 10,000 per day – we had just 4 - delicious). Another ride on an old tram specially designed for the steep hill – low front wheels, high back wheels. Had lunch at the top including sea bass & coffee steak (steak cooked in a coffee, milk, garlic & wine sauce – very interesting).

From our street at night

Belem

We then joined another walking tour – this time to the Alfama district for a night of Fado entertainment. A really great night where we learned a lot about the history of Fado. There were two traditional guitarists & various singers apart from the main guy including the hostess, one of the guitarists, the waitress, the chef & a guy who seemed to just wander in. We also sang along with some choruses & the hostess was a crazy lady who kept us entertained. A good fun night but too much vinho? Walked back in the rain – very welcome given the horrible bush fires over here.

The drive from Lisbon to Falesia Beach in the Algarve (south coast of Portugal) was interesting. After escaping the city we passed through some very flat terrain dotted with farms. Gradually the land became undulating with a mix of farms, plantations of eucalypts, cork trees & bush land. Towns were few & far between along this stretch. The hills grew as we approached the Algarve but not huge.  Once we reached the coast we were back into the crowds with large towns running in to each other & heavy traffic & heaps of roadworks to slow us down. Staying at a semi resort hotel for the next few days for a bit of a rest from all this tough holidaying!!

Falesia Beach

Two rest days - big buffet breakfasts, some planning, walks around town, two swim in the sea (beautiful) & the pool, pre-dinner drinks with Canadian scots – yummy dinners.

All rested so headed off to Sagres & Cabo de Sao Vicente, the south west corner of Portugal. A fairly barren & bleak area but with spectacular cliffs & a fascinating fort. Had a walk around the cliff tops with great views. Then back for a dinner of swordfish & monk fish.

Cabo de Sao Vicente

Porto to Lisbon – 11 to 14 October

Left Porto in thick fog – made everything look a little ethereal. Stopped at Aveiro - Portugal’s version of Venice (on a small scale) in bright sunshine. They have a series of canals with boats (similar to gondola’s) which were originally used to transport salt & seaweed for fertiliser but now for tourists. Also sampled two local treats, ovos moles (made from eggs with a sort of rice paper covering) & francesinha (a toasted ham & cheese sango with an egg & melted cheese floating in tomato soup - not bad). The touristy canal section of town was very quaint but set in the middle of a much bigger city of 80,000.

Aveiro canal boat

Aveiro

Francesinha (better than it looks)

Next stop, the university town of Coimbra. The university buildings, on the grounds of a former palace, are beautiful and date back to the 18th century. The baroque library is quite stunning but visits are restricted to 20 minutes for 3 floors?? We wandered the streets of the old town & got lost but found a terrific local restaurant for dinner. The city had a vibrant feel with all the young students around.

Coimbra University

Coimbra street at night

125 Stairs to Coimbra university (climbed these twice)

We then travelled to Batalha (battle). The town & magnificent monastery were built to pay homage to a great Portuguese victory in 1385 which effectively gave Portugal its independence from Spain.

Part of Batalha Monastery

Nazare was our next stop – a beautiful beachside town with rows of whitewashed buildings – some perched on the cliffs overlooking the sandy beach.

Nazare from beach (see houses at top)

Nazare

Our final stop for the day was Obidos where we stayed in a beautiful little guest house within the walls. We were able to walk completely around the town on the walls. A very colourful town with the local delicacy being Ginja (a cherry based liqueur consumed from a small chocolate cup (yum). Also sampled chorizo with cheese cooked at our table.

Our room door in Obidos

Obidos

Obidos

Chorizo & cheese cooked at table in Obidos with Ginja (yum)

The following day we drove to Sintra. It was a bit like driving through the Yarra Valley plus, of course, quaint towns.

Three palaces, a castle, a garden & a walk made for a hectic day. First, Palacio Nacional de Sintra with it’s amazing chimneys, then the colourful fantasy castle of Palacio da Pena, next was the Castelo dos Mouros perched, of course, on top of the hill and finally the Palacio e Quinta da Regaleira with its amazing initiatic well with spiral staircase and grottos. We & the other thousands of tourists were impressed.

Palacio da Pena

Palacio da Pena

Walk to Castelo dos Mouros

Initiatic Well

After a nanna nap we headed out for dinner – cuttlefish, pork, shrimps, beans, sausage, mushrooms washed down with wine & accompanied by two singers – not bad.

Porto - 6 to 10 October

Left Costoia & headed south for Portugal. Pleasant drive through hills & small villages & some larger towns. As we entered Portugal we rose up into bigger hills & then through beautiful terraced vineyards showing their autumn colours as we approached Porto. The last part of the drive into Porto was through a maze of narrow, cobblestoned one way streets to our amazing apartment on the banks of the Douro River right beside the massive Ponte Luis 1 bridge.

Terraced vineyards

Our little car is parked in a multi-story car park with very tight bends to get around. We entered at the ground floor & we are parked on the 4th floor - the exit is onto the street behind on the 8th floor!!

We are very much a part of the vibrant life of this city as we are surrounded by cafes, restaurants & cathedrals, the usual narrow winding streets crowded with tourists – walking, eating, buying. Plus there is constant activity on the river – cruises, canoes, gondolas, jet skis, jet boats & kids jumping off the bridge. I somehow managed to walk across the top level of the bridge today (85 metres above the water) – very scary. We wandered the streets & took a bus to the beaches on the Atlantic coast just 5 kms away. Very tempting to swim but togs back at the apartment.

Pacos do Concelho - Porto

Porto train station

Porto from Pont Luis 1 bridge

Pont Luis 1 Bridge

Porto beach

Tonight enjoyed a tour of a winery specialising in port with tastings (yum) & a traditional Fado music show.

Today started with a visit to Palacio da Bolsa – not a palace in the normal sense as no one ever lived there. It was built by the Commercial Association of Porto as their base. The land was donated by D Maria II, Queen of Portugal, in the 1830’s. The building is still used by the Association & rooms can be rented for functions. The architecture & décor throughout is stunning with the highlight being the Arab Hall – designed to impress visiting dignitaries & business people – it works very well.

Arab Hall in Palacio da Bolsa

We then strolled the streets to find the Municipal Gardens high above the city. A large and impressive garden but in need of some care.

Porto from Municipal Gardens

Next stop, the Livraria Lello, a magnificent looking book shop which supposedly inspired J K Rowlings’ Harry Potter books. It has become heavily touristified but still well worth a visit. Tucked in to a custard tart with port before an arvo nap.

Typical tile covered buildings

Port & custard tart

For a change of pace we boarded the Barcadouro cruise boat on a brisk & smoky morning (bush fires are all around Portugal at present producing a thick haze). Passed through the suburbs of Porto until we gradually found more forest & farms. There were signs of the fires in many places & some still smoldering. They have had a hot dry summer here. As we travelled further up the river the vineyards started to sprout up all around on beautiful terraces with whitewashed buildings – very beautiful.

Douro River

Douro River

Douro River

We travelled around 32kms up river and passed through thee locks on dams along the river. These were huge affairs lifting the boat 14, 35 & 27 metres respectively. It was like being at

the bottom of a well & we felt very small. There were up to 4 boats at once (very squeezy) & it only took about 15 minutes to fill.

From our boat roof inside the lock on the Douro - the upper water level is at the top at back

Lock on Douro

Our lunch table on the boat had Swiss, Portugese & English couples – all spoke excellent English (even the poms). We also met some nice Aussies. A very relaxing & pleasant cruise followed by a train ride back to Porto & dinner with a few of the Aussies.

Finished our Porto holiday with a quiet day of strolling the laneways, sipping on port & trying various styles of bacalhau (salted cod), cheeses, cold meats, strange sausages etc.

Porto at night