Porto - 6 to 10 October

Left Costoia & headed south for Portugal. Pleasant drive through hills & small villages & some larger towns. As we entered Portugal we rose up into bigger hills & then through beautiful terraced vineyards showing their autumn colours as we approached Porto. The last part of the drive into Porto was through a maze of narrow, cobblestoned one way streets to our amazing apartment on the banks of the Douro River right beside the massive Ponte Luis 1 bridge.

Terraced vineyards

Our little car is parked in a multi-story car park with very tight bends to get around. We entered at the ground floor & we are parked on the 4th floor - the exit is onto the street behind on the 8th floor!!

We are very much a part of the vibrant life of this city as we are surrounded by cafes, restaurants & cathedrals, the usual narrow winding streets crowded with tourists – walking, eating, buying. Plus there is constant activity on the river – cruises, canoes, gondolas, jet skis, jet boats & kids jumping off the bridge. I somehow managed to walk across the top level of the bridge today (85 metres above the water) – very scary. We wandered the streets & took a bus to the beaches on the Atlantic coast just 5 kms away. Very tempting to swim but togs back at the apartment.

Pacos do Concelho - Porto

Porto train station

Porto from Pont Luis 1 bridge

Pont Luis 1 Bridge

Porto beach

Tonight enjoyed a tour of a winery specialising in port with tastings (yum) & a traditional Fado music show.

Today started with a visit to Palacio da Bolsa – not a palace in the normal sense as no one ever lived there. It was built by the Commercial Association of Porto as their base. The land was donated by D Maria II, Queen of Portugal, in the 1830’s. The building is still used by the Association & rooms can be rented for functions. The architecture & décor throughout is stunning with the highlight being the Arab Hall – designed to impress visiting dignitaries & business people – it works very well.

Arab Hall in Palacio da Bolsa

We then strolled the streets to find the Municipal Gardens high above the city. A large and impressive garden but in need of some care.

Porto from Municipal Gardens

Next stop, the Livraria Lello, a magnificent looking book shop which supposedly inspired J K Rowlings’ Harry Potter books. It has become heavily touristified but still well worth a visit. Tucked in to a custard tart with port before an arvo nap.

Typical tile covered buildings

Port & custard tart

For a change of pace we boarded the Barcadouro cruise boat on a brisk & smoky morning (bush fires are all around Portugal at present producing a thick haze). Passed through the suburbs of Porto until we gradually found more forest & farms. There were signs of the fires in many places & some still smoldering. They have had a hot dry summer here. As we travelled further up the river the vineyards started to sprout up all around on beautiful terraces with whitewashed buildings – very beautiful.

Douro River

Douro River

Douro River

We travelled around 32kms up river and passed through thee locks on dams along the river. These were huge affairs lifting the boat 14, 35 & 27 metres respectively. It was like being at

the bottom of a well & we felt very small. There were up to 4 boats at once (very squeezy) & it only took about 15 minutes to fill.

From our boat roof inside the lock on the Douro - the upper water level is at the top at back

Lock on Douro

Our lunch table on the boat had Swiss, Portugese & English couples – all spoke excellent English (even the poms). We also met some nice Aussies. A very relaxing & pleasant cruise followed by a train ride back to Porto & dinner with a few of the Aussies.

Finished our Porto holiday with a quiet day of strolling the laneways, sipping on port & trying various styles of bacalhau (salted cod), cheeses, cold meats, strange sausages etc.

Porto at night